theflashpacker.com

backpacking… upgraded

Archive for February, 2008


Barcelona: Living La Vida Local

La Sagrada Familia -- Antonio GaudiUnless you’re allergic to perfect weather, high fashion, exquisite food and wine, rapturous flamenco music, and genre-defining art and architecture, Barcelona ought to be near the top of your list of desired destinations. Even if you are allergic, you should probably just suck it up and go.

More posts on Barcelona’s cultural appeal will follow, but for now let’s talk about where to stay. Rather than booking a hotel room or rooms (which tend to bottom out at about €100 per night), consider renting a furnished apartment during your stay. You’ll save money for one thing; apartment rental rates are favorable, particularly as the size of your party increases, and with a full kitchen at your disposal you won’t have to dine out as often. But there’s also something qualitatively different about returning to an apartment each night instead of coming back to the cloister of a hotel room. You feel less like a tourist, more like a native.

Our three-bedroom apartment was quintessentially European: a bit compact, but comfortable, clean, and beautifully designed. We were only two blocks from a metro station, and we had a nice food market, a pharmacy, and multiple cafés within hopping distance. The five of us stayed for more than a week at a rate that worked out to about €40 per person per night. Larger apartments can sleep eight to ten people comfortably, and it’s not uncommon to find rates from about €25 per person per night.

The metro is easily the best way to get around Barcelona. It’s cheap, clean, and efficient, and lines extend in all directions. You can stay virtually anywhere and still be a quick metro ride from the Ramblas or one of Gaudi’s mind-sprung wonders, and the farther away from the main attractions you are, the better the deals you’ll find.

It’s not necessarily a bad idea to wait until the last minute to book; you can find special rates on apartments less than two weeks before your trip. Check out Rent4days and Friendly Rentals, among others, for some short-notice savings.

Share on Facebook

It’s not sexy, but it’s green…

One of the only downsides to travel is its environmental impact. If you think you rate pretty well on the environmental scorecard but haven’t tracked the carbon footprint created by a trip or two per year, you’re in for a shock. Several years ago I realized that I would never be able to become carbon neutral based on my crazy travel schedule for work and play. Still, I believe strongly in splurging on sustainable and environmentally-conscious travel whenever it’s an option.

Green Globe is a certification program for all types of travel companies that have achieved a gold, silver, or bronze rating. The site has a search function for consumers; unfortunately it isn’t all that sexy. No pictures, no flash. It’s also a little thin on actual companies, and many countries have only one or no listings. While Green Globe might be the standard (as endorsed by 182 heads of state at the Rio Earth Summit of 1992), it’s just not that user friendly.

Much better was the broader National Geographic Center for Sustainable Tourism Site, which had a good collection of resources for travelers. What’s also cool about the Center is that they’re on the hunt for companies and people involved in sustainable tourism around the world — so keep your eyes open for great local initiatives and help build the list!

Share on Facebook

Buenos Aires: Luxury on a Budget

Buenos Aires is one of the world’s great cities, and after a period of economic turmoil in Argentina, it’s ascendant again. Whit and I spent the final week of our November honeymoon shuttling between BA landmarks, taking in as many diverse cultural, social, and comestible offerings as possible.

The sprawling capital city comprises 13 million people that inhabit dozens of barrios, each of which lends its own distinct flavor to the city’s palette. We stationed ourselves for a couple nights each in Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo, and set about exploring the city each day. It was in San Telmo where we found one of BA’s loveliest surprises: a boutique hotel called the Cocker.

Whit initially read about the Cocker in a Condé Nast article; apparently other people read it, too. To our great fortune and complete surprise, we were able to book one of their five suites for consecutive nights only a month before our arrival. It’s a good thing, too, because at the time it was their last remaining availability until May of 2008!

Arriving at the Cocker in the middle of a weekday afternoon, we rang the bell and were soon greeted by Ian, one of the British-expat owners, and Rocco, the faithful, black cocker spaniel for whom the hotel is named. Ian and his partner, Aidan, restored the building from near-total decrepitude a few years ago. The renovation coincided with and contributed to the renaissance of the barrio San Telmo, which has become one of BA’s hottest spots in a short span of time. When you hear people referring to the vibrant tango scene in Buenos Aires, they’re talking about San Telmo.

Our hosts immediately made us feel welcome: Rocco with his hyperkinetic little tail, and Ian by gamely lugging my 400-lb. suitcase up two dozen marble steps with a smile on his face to spite the hernia in his back.

suite 17-04

Our suite was long and open, with a cozy double bed nestled at one end and a large “conversation pit” lined with furs and pillows at the other. The expanse of off-white walls was only occasionally interrupted by well-chosen artwork and orchid blooms that spilled over their vase. I must admit I spent the first few minutes in the suite falling repeatedly into the conversation pit, which was rather like being tackled by the world’s largest and gentlest stuffed animal.

After we’d spent a few moments settling into our suite, Ian gave us a tour of the place. Five elegant suites are split among three floors, which gives a greater sense of privacy than you find at other hotels. The terrace level features two stylish suites situated amid a gorgeous, verdant outdoor garden (one of the suites has a private garden as well). You’ll find no better place to relax than here, staring out above the humming city. But before you get comfortable, make sure to find out what time the automatic sprinklers come on…

salonOn the ground floor there is a salon with a grand piano and books stacked higher than you can reach, as well as the dining area where fresh fruit, croissants, coffee, and juices are laid out each morning. After showing us around, Ian sat us down with a hand-drawn map of San Telmo, which was marked with a few recommended restaurants and activities, and rattled off a list of his favorite Argentine wines to try to find.

Whitney remarked that staying at the Cocker was like crashing at your incredibly stylish friends’ house. She nailed it. We were a trifle sad to leave after the second night, but if we had stayed any longer we might never have left. Rooms at the Cocker range from US$80 to $105 per night, which might be worth it for a tumble in the conversation pit alone.

Share on Facebook

Passport? Check. Camera? Check. Toothbrush?…

If you’ve ever spent the waning hours before your plane departs dashing madly from store to store for overlooked necessities, and then cramming them in the edges of your overstuffed suitcase, then you know all about pre-trip stress.

Depending on the duration, the destination, and the nature of your trip, packing and preparation can require an immense effort. Cut down on the stress with a well-devised plan of attack. At Don’t Forget Your Toothbrush, you’ll find just that.

DFYT allows you to tailor a checklist to your own needs, and establishes a time frame starting weeks before your trip during which to methodically prepare. And they’ve pretty much considered everything – they even include ‘wedding dress and shoes’ on the list of items to pack. I suppose you can never be too prepared on a camping trip, though I should mention (in the interest of public safety) that I’ve found dressing up as Bridezilla insufficient to scare off a bear. If there’s anything they haven’t included, you can add it yourself. Keep to the list and you won’t forget your toothbrush; just make sure you don’t forget the list…

Share on Facebook

Seatguru

Seatguru is a little like having your own special travel elf that checks out the plane ahead of time and lets you know which aisles have extra leg room and which seats have that annoying box that blocks any under-the-seat-in-front-of-you storage.

This site covers all the major (and some non-major) airlines and lets you look up any plane. It gives incredibly detailed information on armrests, aisle width, seat width, leg room and anything else where an extra centimeter makes a huge difference over the course of eight hours.

So, I checked out my dad’s plane - Delta’s Boeing 767-400. Seatguru tells me to stay away from rows 27, 44, 45, and 46 since they don’t recline as much. It also tells you need-to-know information like whether or not all the seats have video units (every seat on the 767-400 does) — again, small details that can make a big difference in on a long-haul flight.

Share on Facebook

Bookworms abroad

I pack my bags a heck of a lot. So much so that the pre-trip packing is not exciting in the least. For me, little induces dread like hauling my suitcase out of the attic. The one pre-trip ritual that I still absolutely love, though, is picking out the books I’m going to take. I usually try to take along literature from the country or region I’m visiting. Slightly geeky, yes. But, I always end up making a connection in art, culture, history, etc that I would have never found in-country if I hadn’t gone the immersion route.

So, I was excited to come across the site The Literary Traveler. This site is from a husband and wife team that bases loose tour itineraries around famous authors and their work. They also post articles about connections of great works of literature with sites.

While I love the theme, their focus is a little too Anglo-, Euro-centric for my travel tastes. (Who doesn’t make the connection between Dickens and London). Some of my recent travel reading has been Jorge Luis Borges in Argentina and tales about folk hero Xieng Mieng in Laos. Where can you go to get the good stuff?

Well, I found one site focusing on South Africa, which dug deeper than Mandela. I wish I had seen this site before I visited! The New Zealand Book Council provides nifty interactive map where you can click on a part of the country and see which authors are associated with the region.

The ultimate site is Biblio Travel. You simply put in the name of the city where you’re going and it spits out a list of books that take place in that city. I tried a few off the beaten path places and the site delivered — 3 books that take place in Timbuktu! Go check it out and start anticipating your next trip. It’s the best part of packing…

Share on Facebook

The wacky factor…worth the price?

Today’s post is inspired by the website Unusual Hotels of the World I’ve actually stayed in some of the hotels listed on this website, including the ice hotel in Quebec (more about that later). I think the weirdest one may be the two-storey beagle that you can stay in for $92 a night. Where is this fantastic find you ask? The middle of Idaho where the list of local attractions includes a drive-in movie theater.Remember that weakening dollar I mentioned yesterday? Well, if you want a view of the Danube for less than $100, try sleeping in the sewer. Literally. At Das Park Hotel you get to sleep in a refurbished sewer pipe.

Not surprisingly (to me a least) a fair number of weird hotels are located in Sweden, including the Utter Inn, where you sleep 3m underwater in the middle of a lake. Bonus: sleek affordable design by Ikea.

While most of these options are pretty reasonable, you sometimes pay a pretty penny for the wacky factor. Is it worth it? The truth is, if you spend your life traveling, some of the places you go actually start to blend together. If the point is to look back on these memories fondly when you’re eighty, the crazier they were, the better.

Share on Facebook

Pampered in Patagonia

torresIn discussing our honeymoon destination, my wife and I went back and forth trying to find a place that would satisfy us both. She wanted pure relaxation after a harrowing half-year of work, wedding planning, and family demands. I wanted to decompress with a physically challenging trek in a faraway place. We found the perfect compromise a hemisphere away, in Chilean Patagonia.

Famous for its glacier-hewn, ice-capped peaks and the cloudy turquoise waters of Lake Pehoe, Torres del Paine National Park is a backpacker’s mecca. Most park visitors take to the trails of the “W,” a four- or five-day trek that snakes (in the shape of a ‘w’) through the highlights of Torres del Paine’s variable landscape. One leg of the “W” ends at the foot of the sprawling Grey Glacier; another passes through the French Valley, with the low rumbling of avalanches in the distance; the last leg winds up at the base of the park’s namesakes, the stunning towers (“torres” in Spanish).

You might be thinking, “a multi-day trek through the mountains of Patagonia doesn’t sound like much of a compromise.” Well, here’s where the relaxation part comes in.sleep dome

After each full day of strenuous hiking, we retired to the comforts of Cascada Expediciones’s EcoCamp, a series of canvas domes arrayed beneath the park’s highest peak. Our dome was furnished with an incredibly comfortable double bed; beneath layers of fleece sheets, a comforter, and a sheepskin throw, it was easy staying warm when temperatures dropped below freezing at night.

meal domeMeals in the big dome were fantastic: succulent barbecued lamb and beef chops, fresh salads and sides, and delicious Chilean wines. Our hiking guide was friendly and informative, with a strong command of English (certainly stronger than my command of Spanish). As the name suggests, the EcoCamp adheres to the ethics of sustainability; recycling and composting whenever possible, it does its part to preserve the sublime beauty of the park.

A seven-day trip with Cascada will set you back $1,675; the five-day option we chose was a bit cheaper and well worth it.

Share on Facebook

Where to travel on a weak dollar

Now that Europe is astronomically expensive and previously amazing bargains like Argentina are strengthening against the dollar, is there anywhere that’s still a steal for the American tourist?

There are indeed a few enclaves where the dollar is faring well. For starters, Costa Rica. While it wasn’t an overly expensive destination to begin with, the dollar has increased in value there a whopping 37% compared to the colon over the last 5 years! In Egypt you’re looking at 19% and Malaysia is 16% .

Southeast Asia looks like a good bet - just skip Thailand, where the baht has strengthened a lot in just a year. The dollar has strengthened in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Looks like 2008 is the year to cruise down the Mekong….

For more help navigating on a weak dollar, check out Condé Nast’s Dollar Power.

Share on Facebook

Fake border crossing = awesome vacation?

From kayak newsletter…

“At Parque Eco Alberto[sic], you can go on a pretend ‘Night Border Crossing Experience.’ The parque is owned by the Hnahnu Indians in Hidalgo, about three hours from Mexico City. The $18, four-hour night hike starts with the Mexico National Anthem. Your ‘coyote’ guide, Pancho, pulls off his black ski mask while actors gather around to scare you senseless along the way. Run from border control agents; dodge hidden actors shooting (blanks) at you, and make your way through barbed-wire fences. Survivors are blindfolded, led across a rickety bridge, and then set free to run across the border to freedom!”

I’m not sure if this would be insensitive or highly educational? You decide…

Parque EcoAlberto’s website

Share on Facebook