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Archive for the ‘Accommodation’


Tune Hotels: Air Asia’s new venture hits the low notes

“A 5-star sleeping experience at a 1-star price.” That’s what Malaysia’s Tune Hotels aim to offer. But do they succeed?

Like its parent company, Air Asia, has done for commercial air travel, Tune rethinks the traditional hotel business model, allowing guests to tailor their stay by selecting (and paying for) amenities à la carte. If you want a budget room with minimal creature comforts, that’s what you’ll get. If you want more flash, you pull more cash.

The basic Tune room, which can be had for as little as RM9.99 ($3) plus tax if you play your advance-online-booking cards right, consists of a bed, a hot shower, an electronic safe, and a ceiling fan. That means no extravagances like a/c, tv, towels, or soap. But unlike comparably priced hostel and motel rooms tend to be, Tune’s pared-down digs are stylish and comfortable spaces that the magical Ikea elves might have designed in their spare time. That is, if they even experience time.

The rooms are compact and angular, to a somnambulator’s chagrin; the bathrooms are chic and clean; and the bedding is pristine, with “King Koil®spring mattress beds with pillows, pillowcases, bed sheets and 250-thread count duvets.” For a small incremental fee each — ranging from $2 to $5 — you can upgrade your stay with a towel and toiletries, a/c, wi-fi (though they have a free internet cafe in the lobby), and travel insurance. I recommend this last one from personal experience, especially if your itinerary is subject to change; without insurance, if you have to cancel a reservation, your prepayment might as well have been a donation.

Another interesting Tune touch: Instead of mawkish, Bob-Ross-clone hotel paintings, the walls of a Tune room are adorned with concept art of its own — advertisements for hotel services, Air Asia promotions, and nearby restaurants. Hey, if it helps keep room rates low, I don’t mind the odd dash of corporate propaganda. I might even pay a little extra to avoid another picture of a solitary eagle, looking all pensive and forlorn.

You might be thinking, “If room rates are so low, the hotels must be in awful locations or have some sort of poltergiest they’re not telling us about, right?” As for locations, Tune takes pride in setting up shop where people want to be, i.e. in safe areas near the downtown bustle and major shopping areas. And as for the poltergeist, isn’t it possible that it’s just looking for high-quality accommodation at a reasonable price, too?

But Tune does go off pitch in places. They certainly haven’t made a huge investment in soundproofing, for one thing. During one of my nights in the Kuala Lumpur hotel, the adjacent room to mine held a family of four, from the sound of it. One of the children so enjoyed the peals of his own squealing and the relentless patter of his flip-flops down the (acoustically brilliant) tile hallway, that he continued for an adolescent’s eternity, until he either ran out of batteries or into a wall.

Currently only the Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, hotels are open for business, but there are five others in Malaysia scheduled to open soon. Plus, as the major airlines have had to adjust to the success of low-cost carriers, I wouldn’t be surprised if struggling hotels and startups around the world adopt the Tune model if Air Asia’s hotel experiment takes off. And that sounds just right to me.

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Vang Vieng, Laos: When it rains, it bores…

My experience in Vang Vieng is only worth recounting for how singularly unsuccessful it was. Even before I left Luang Prabang, I should have sensed that my travel stars were misaligned or something.

Having arranged for the Vang Vieng-bound bus to pick me up at my guesthouse at 9 a.m., I was surprised to be summoned from the shower, dripping wet and partially covered, by the driver’s knocking on my door at 8:10 a.m. He hadn’t come to pick me up, only to tell me that he’d be back in 15 minutes to retrieve me. So I hopped back in the shower, performed my hygienic obligations, packed in a flash, and ignored my hunger pangs so I wouldn’t hold him up. I spent the next 90 minutes in the lobby of my guesthouse awaiting him, sipping Nescafé through gritted teeth and daydreaming about the delicious, steaming cup of coffee I could have bought to douse him with.

Fast forward six hours. With just twenty kilometers between us and Vang Vieng, and as the gorgeous karst mountains outside my window began to hint at the beauty to come, it started to rain. No big deal, but from the resigned looks on the faces of cows we passed, I figured that either this town was on a beef-only diet or that the storm front wasn’t going anywhere. The latter proved to be true; the rain wouldn’t cease, even momentarily, for the entirety of my (admittedly brief) two-day stay.

Dropped off in the center of town, I immediately encountered a strange Vang Vieng phenomenon I’d read about but didn’t want to believe: a succession of bars where backpackers lounged about glassy-eyed, drinking cheap Beerlao and laughlessly watching “Friends.” It was a bit creepy how docile they were, as if they were all plugged into the Matrix and unaware that life had more to offer than decade-old sitcoms. It’s quite possible that a few of them had swallowed blue pills, at any rate. But more on that later.

Determined not to be thwarted by the weather — or sucked into the vortex of must-see TV — the next morning I rode ten miles (and a couple extra, thanks to some illegible kilometer markers) out of town to see two guidebook-recommended caves. Due to the unrelenting rain, however, the river was too swollen and the current too powerful to safely cross. So back I rode, soaking and cold, to my guesthouse, where I retired with a book until dinner.

I’ll mention here that my room, one of Le Jardin Organique’s sparsely furnished riverfront bungalows, was the one high point (literally, fortunately) of my stay. The picture above shows the view from my porch of the Nam Song river after the first night’s rains. This being the low season (and I was beginning to understand why), the room only cost $9 per night.

When my grumbling stomach finally forced me back out into the rain that evening, I found my way to the Organic Mulberry Farm Café, a restaurant operated by the farm of the same name that lies just north of town. I sat down and asked for a mulberry shake, a specialty of theirs, hoping mulberry and ice were the only ingredients. Which brings me to another of Vang Vieng’s well known quirks (and backpacker attractors): the widespread availability of drugs to anyone with half a mind and a few thousand kip to try them. Blend ‘em up in a fruit shake, bake ‘em onto a pizza, whatever you want, just order it ‘happy’ and let it take you away. In case you’re wondering, I ordered all my food ‘cynical’.

Between courses and nursing a glass of the farm’s own mulberry wine, I contemplated this strange town. That’s when its brutal logic hit me. Only a brain massaged by the kneading fingers of psychotropic drugs could find watching a repetitive loop of “Friends” episodes to be a worthwhile diversion. And as “Friends”-with-no-end is one of the only viable activities here in a marathon rain, why not depolarize your brain with a substance some guy you don’t know can stir into your smoothie?

The saving stroke of the trip was to be a kayaking excursion, already booked and paid for, down the Nam Song to Vientiane, which I’d been looking forward to all week. I had a bad feeling when I opened my front door after the second rainy night to this:

After waging an escape from my bungalow through a thigh-deep soup of river water and rubbish, I went to meet the kayaking guide, who told me that, although the river had been perfectly navigable the day before, today the water level was too high and the trip had to be canceled. Naturally.

With the proceeds from my refund I paid for the last remaining seat on the next minibus to Vientiane. Even in such dreary weather, this place was undeniably beautiful, but I was definitely ready to move on. I climbed into my seat and watched the rivulets of rain glide across the window for a while after we pulled out of town. And then the sun came out.

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Luang Prabang, Laos — part two

(…continued from previous post)

Back at the guesthouse on Monday afternoon, I awoke just before 5 p.m. from a heat-induced nap, my battery recharged and my wallet $70 lighter (which seemed too hefty a price for the run-of-the-mill, single speed guesthouse bike I’d been relieved of at the wat, though I was in no position to haggle). Unfortunately, pretty much everything in Luang Prabang besides restaurants and bars closes by 5:30 p.m., so I had little to do but find some dinner and plot out the next day, my last in this history-rich town. I resolved to make the most of it, and this time I would do so on foot.

My first stop the next morning (after coffee at JoMa, of course, and a street-stall baguette for breakfast) was the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center, a newly opened museum aimed at giving tourists an appreciation for Laos’s vast cultural diversity. Featuring English- and Lao-language exhibits — like the one pictured above, on the Hmong people — depicting the traditional clothing, tools, and handicrafts of various ethnic groups, of which there are 49 in Laos, it’s a well-organized and informative little museum.

Looming over the Ethnology Center is Phu Si, a 100-meter tall hill topped with a stupa that offers the best views in town, so that’s where I headed next. On the back side of the hill, there is a series of Buddha statues, including the Reclining Buddha pictured above, and a ‘Buddha footprint,’ also pictured above. It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the ‘footprint’ measures more than a meter across: sasquatch enthusiasts, take heart.

The climbing left me hungry and in a lather, so I wandered over to Tamarind for a cool drink and a bite of lunch. One of the few restaurants in town that eschews the pervasive Thai influence, focusing instead on traditional Lao cuisine, Tamarind was a definite highlight of this trip. I opted for an iced drink made from jujube fruit and a splash of coconut milk, which was bittersweet and delicious. Since this would be my only meal here, I ordered a sampling platter consisting of a few different tastes: lettuce wraps filled with crab meat, rice noodles, and cardamom; sautéed bamboo shoots and pumpkin vines; homemade pork sausage; and strips of buffalo meat dried like jerky, then brushed with a slightly sweet marinade and smoked. The platter came with a generous portion of a Lao staple, sticky rice. To eat it, you’re supposed to roll a wad of sticky rice into a tight ball with your hands and pair it with a bite of something else. I savored every morsel; the buffalo meat and lettuce wraps were especially tasty. I had wats to see, though, so off I went.

Sixty percent of Lao people are Theravada Buddhists, and most Lao males will spend some time, usually a few months during their adolescence, away from their families, living in a wat and studying Buddhist texts (and nowadays, Marxist-Leninist thought as well) as novice monks. Ordination into monkhood requires a vow to adhere to some 227 precepts, which govern all facets of behavior. These include prohibitions on sexual relations, consumption of alcohol, and even “tickling with the fingers.”

One of the precepts holds that monks can only eat that which has been given to them. Therefore, each morning at sunrise the monks process through town performing an alms-round, where townspeople and tourists alike line up to press sticky rice into the monks’ alms bowls. Buddhist devotees believe that good deeds like this earn them merit, which accumulates over the course of a lifetime and can be carried over into the next, inching them closer and closer to liberation.

Luang Prabang is home to nearly three dozen wats, and though each of them is uniquely beautiful and ornate, it’s easy to get burned out on them. So I’ll only mention a few of the most notable here. The oldest extant structure in Luang Prabang, the Lotus Stupa at Wat Wisunarat (above at left), celebrated its 500th birthday in 2004. It’s showing signs of age, of course, but it’s a pretty awe-inspiring sight.

Perhaps the most famous of Lao wats, Xieng Thong (below, middle and right) is nearly as old as the Lotus Stupa and just as impressive. Built in 1560, Wat Xieng Thong sits a stone’s throw from the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and is home to about 30 monks. Finally, in a program sponsored by UNESCO, monks studying at Wat Xieng Muan are trained in skills like woodcarving (above at right), gold stenciling, and bronze casting to ensure that the magnificence of Luang Prabang’s temples is preserved for future generations.

That night I took a stroll through the famous night market, whose stalls line up each evening to span several blocks of Luang Prabang’s main street. Tourists weave through the narrow lanes between them, browsing and bargaining for handmade jewelry, silk scarves and tapestries, wood carvings, handbags, and of course, the ubiquitous “Same Same But Different” T-shirts and hats peddled all over Laos and Thailand. After an excellent dinner at Tum Tum Bamboo Restaurant — a perfect tomato salad followed by catfish stewed in coconut milk, a dish formerly prepared for the Lao royal family — I headed back to my guesthouse for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow I was bound for Vang Vieng.

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Luang Prabang, Laos — part one

Ten hours after my bus left Vientiane, and with Luang Prabang mercifully near, there was an explosion in the undercarriage directly beneath my seat. “Was that a sniper?” begged the girl in the row ahead of me. Unless we’re all unwitting extras in a forthcoming Tomb Raider movie, it was probably just a tire blowout, I thought.

Having braked the bus to a stop on the right-hand shoulder, the driver and his two attendants climbed down to inspect the damage, and were followed out by a stream of curious passengers. Sure enough, one of the rear, interior tires had blown. Long strips of tread lay like discarded fruit peels in the distance behind us. The attendants got to work loosening the outer wheel’s fist-sized lug nuts as we, the road-weary audience, looked on. Just fifteen minutes later we were back en route. We pulled into Luang Prabang’s bus station about an hour before dark.

On a map Laos resembles a palm tree leaning left, and Luang Prabang sits right in the middle of the crown, at the meeting of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Home for centuries to Laos’s ruling monarchs, Luang Prabang fell under French protection in the late 19th century, though the royal family remained nominally in power. The French made Vientiane the new capital but maintained a presence in Luang Prabang until the 1950’s, leaving their footprint on the town in the form of countless colonial villas that intermingle with its grandest attractions — more than two dozen majestic Buddhist wats. Oh, and they still make a mean baguette here, too.

After a short tuk-tuk ride from the bus station, I set off on foot with my guidebook in hand to find a room for the night. The first three places I tried were full, and as the last traces of daylight disappeared, the rain started to fall. In another minute it was coming down with vigor. Getting doused and desperate, I ducked under the arch of the next guesthouse I found, sprinted up its open-air stairs, and put my name on its only available room, a triple that would cost me $30 for the night. More than I wanted to pay, yes, but worth it to escape the monsoon.

I fell onto the smaller of the room’s two beds, tuned the TV to the BBC, and let the cold a/c dry me off. After an hour’s vegetation I saw that the rain had moved on, so I shuffled over to Nisha Indian Restaurant, where only the atmosphere was flavorless. I polished off a delicious chicken tikka masala, garlic naan, a garden salad, and two Beerlao Darks for less than $8. Recommended.

The next morning I packed up and found a new place to stay, the Ammata Guesthouse, where I dropped off my stuff and rented a bike for the day. [I should mention that my room that night would cost $25, not the $15 quoted by my guidebook, which was printed less than a year ago. And in the low season to boot? Inflation seems to be the rule in Luang Prabang these days.] I’d have two full days to see the sights, and the bike would allow me to cover most of the town on the first day.

I found and crossed the gapped pedestrian bridge that straddles the mud-colored Nam Khan river, then pedaled out to a tiny village past the airport. The paved road gave way to a dirt path cratered with puddles and serrated with rocks. Fearing another tire puncture and a long walk back, I got down and pushed the bike on foot. A half dozen incredibly cute kids followed me down the road for a few meters, shouting “Sabaidee!” and giggling amongst themselves when I tried to reply in kind. I kept walking until the path narrowed and became thick with growth on both sides, when tomorrow’s newspaper headline flashed through my head: “Disoriented tourist, inexplicably pushing perfectly sound bike, gobbled up by jungle cat previously thought extinct. Town celebrates jungle cat.” So I turned back.

As I approached the Nam Khan again, I caught sight of a gleaming, golden-spired pagoda up in the hills and decided to pay it a visit. The sign spanning the entrance read ‘Wat Pa Phon Phao’. I rode up the driveway, parked and locked my bike, and removed my shoes before entering the wat’s Peace Pagoda. Inside I met a few Buddhist nuns who invited me to have a look around. The octagonal pagoda has four levels, each one smaller than the last as you climb, with walls covered 360° with vibrantly painted panels

that depict “Buddhist stories and moral admonitions,” according to Lonely Planet. Apparently none of the admonitions addresses bike theft, because when I walked outside again, mine had disappeared.
I combed the area around the pagoda, finding nothing but a groundskeeper at work and a few pumpkin-robed monks lazing in their bunks. Quite annoyed, but fearing the karmic implications of casting accusing eyes upon monks and nuns, I started the long walk back to my guest house under a baking sun, hoping it might turn my vexation into muffins. (to be continued….)

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VRBO® and HomeAway as hotel alternative…

Flashpackers, are you looking for a place to stay during an upcoming trip but want to avoid a sterile hotel room? Consider VRBO® (Vacation Rentals By Owner) or HomeAway.com, a pair of websites that connect you directly with owners of rental properties around the world. Dwellings range from one-bedroom apartments to massive villas in just about any destination you might like to visit.

In theory rental properties have the upper hand on hotels for a number of reasons. They tend to be more spacious — HomeAway.com claims that rentals generally cost at least 50% less per square foot than hotels — and more cost effective for larger groups of travelers. They come with fully-equipped kitchens, so you don’t have to shell out for restaurant fare every meal. And they offer a bit more privacy. If the hotel you’re staying in is unsettled in the middle of the night by the return of drunken, boisterous backpackers, you’ll probably continue to be disturbed and sleepless until they pass out. If the same revelers return to your private residence in the wee hours, you’re probably among them and at least your off-key caterwauling won’t disturb anyone else.

Here’s how it works: you find a rental in your desired location, size, and price range, and contact the owner directly to see if it’s available for the dates you need. Shown above is a renovated three-bedroom guesthouse in Marrakech, Morocco, that rents for $1,683 per week. Put six people in it and it comes to about $40 per person per night. You can even charter a yacht; for example, take five friends with you on a kayaking and fishing adventure around Alaska’s Prince William Sound on this 40-footer for only $100 per person per night!

Dealing directly with the owner brings advantages and disadvantages. First, the cons. Rental properties may or may not be the renter’s primary source of income, so an individual renter might be less reliable or responsive than a hotel or travel agency, whose viability depends on customer service. There’s also a chance that a given listing is bogus, but if you register your trip with the website, you are guaranteed up to $5,000 reimbursement if the renter turns out to be illegitimate.

On the other hand, being able to contact the owner directly allows for a bit more flexibility. If you’re traveling on short notice, for instance, when a rental would otherwise be sitting vacant, you might be able to negotiate a better-than-advertised rate with the owner. And if you’re going on vacation but refuse to leave your St. Bernard at home, he’s got a better shot at lumbering around the grounds of a private villa than the carpeted halls of the Radisson.

If you’re still on the fence about the privately owned vacation rental, perhaps it will help to know that VRBO®’s mascot is a bow-tied teddy bear who personally (bearly?) stays in and reviews listed rentals, and whose autobiography is longer than Methuselah’s.

Thanks to my father-in-law for the tip!

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Luxe among the cockroaches

Sometimes flashpacking isn’t an option. Perhaps the economy’s got you down and you can only afford budget accommodations for this year’s vacation. Maybe you’re planning on going far off the beaten track and there’re slim pickings. The question du jour is can you fake flashpacking?

In my line of work you often have to stay in some pretty wretched places, including where I was last week - a $7 a night guest house, away from the usual tourist haunts somewhere in Laos. The general idea with faking flashpacking is to trick your brain into thinking you’re “in the wild” à la Meryl Streep in Out of Africa . As opposed to “in the wild” à la Lord of the Flies. Speaking of flies…

Meet the Mombasa Defender - Mosquito nets are good for more than just mosquitos. Roaches, lizards, and even rats are deterred by them, which means sounder sleep for you. So try to forget the roaches and pretend you’re actually in Mombasa…

Linens and things - Ditch the sure-to-be-disgusting bed sheets (if there are any) and bring along your own. Up the luxury with a nice, compact, silk sleeping bag. You can find these quite cheap all over Asia, but if you’re headed elsewhere, try making your own or score one online.

Avoid that mildew smell - The best way to trick your brain is through scent. You will not be able to pretend you are anywhere but a dingy, dirty place if that’s what it smells like. Even decent dwellings can smell damp and dank during the rainy season, so I always try to pack scented travel candles. Now crawl under your net in your silk sheets, light some candles, and grab a good book. Pretend it’s luxury and a relief to be staying in a place without internet…

Avoid a gross shower and cold water - Dr. Bronner’s is a fantastic organic/fair trade line of soaps and shampoos. At some eco retreats you might even be asked only use Dr. Bronner’s since it’s completely biodegradable and only vegetable based. The downside? You’ll need substantial waterflow for a good lather and rinse. I tend to travel with wet wipes because you can avoid gross guesthouse showers (or freezing cold water) for a few days and stay perfectly clean. And now I’ve found this ezine article, which explains how to make your own Dr. Bronner’s wet wipes with tea tree and lavender oils! You can make the disposable kind or put the solution in a spray bottle and use it with a quick-dry travel towel. If it’s warm where you’re traveling and there’s some privacy, try washing your hair outside and pretend it’s Robert Redford lathering up your hair with those minty suds on your very own high-altitude coffee plantation in Kenya…

Keep your daily buzz -I love these small french press solutions! Death to Nescafe! There’s no reason to drink that horror or do without your daily fix just because you’re far from café culture. Pick your roast, grind your beans, and pack your tiny caffeine savior. Pretend you’re Meryl Streep’s next door neighbor in Out of Africa and that waking up to a rooster crowing before dawn is worth it because you live right next to a high-altitude coffee plantation in Kenya….

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Fun in Norway: more ways than one

(continued from last post…)

In researching yesterday’s post, I came across several excellent sites offering adventure trips in Norway. These were a couple of my favorites: Arctic Pathfinder and Sami Adventure (here’s the English version).

Arctic Pathfinder arranges a wide variety of trips — this is the full list — and judging from the website alone, they seem to be the better organized of the two. Here is a sampling of the trips they organize:

  • On August 1, 2008, there will be total solar eclipse visible in nearby northern Greenland. A few days before the event they’ll fly you to Greenland, where you’ll camp out in the wilderness and take an arctic survival course before heading to the eclipse-viewing camp at Cape Morris Jessup. Here you’ll share camp duties with other participants, including a shift on night-watch to guard against prowling polar bears! If you’re not that into the possibility of being devoured — and where’s your sense of adventure?! — they offer some less perilous trips for your consideration, such as…
  • Ever dreamt of spending a handful of subzero Norwegian nights pushing thousands of reindeer across a blank, icy landscape, taking part in a millennia-old tradition with indigenous Laplanders, the Sami people? Of course you have, and you can arrange exactly that here.
  • A stay at a Sami summer camp. Spend a few nights in a lavvu (also lavvo) and learn the ropes (literally) of reindeer herding, followed by a three-day trekking expedition through the national park. Don’t forget your liggeunderlag.

All of these trips are on the expensive side — the cheapest of them costs about $2,500 per person — but hey, for Americans the whole world is heading to the expensive side.

If you’d prefer to tailor a trip for yourself, check out Sami Adventure, which offers reindeer herding, snowmobiling, hunting in the autumn, fishing in the summer, a wintertime three-night stay in a lavvo to see the Northern Lights, whatever you want to do. You can even take part in the World Championships of reindeer roping. The original Norwegian-language website is only partially translated into English, so I had my friend Google work on it: “This is the tours that provide memories for life and hair on the chest for real karfolk.” So there you go.

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Dreaming of snow and ice and everything nice

With the heat index in Hanoi camped out at 107°F (42°C) this afternoon, I find myself daydreaming about becoming a Bennett-cicle in some distant snowscape. Hence, a two-parter about Lapland adventure travel. For the first part, let’s take a look one of northern Scandinavia’s main attractions, the Northern Lights…

For a detailed explanation of the phenomenon of the Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, check out this page. [Basically particles shot out by the sun are captured by the earth's magnetic field and urged toward the poles, where they collide and react with gas molecules in the atmosphere; these reactions give off energy in the form of light of varying colors. So around both poles, the sky periodically plays the stage to dazzling aerial light displays. In other words, sometimes the atmosphere seems to be filling with beautiful, glowing goo.]

The Northern Lights are better known than their southern counterparts simply because it’s easier to access a vantage point near the north pole (Norway, Sweden, Finland, Iceland, Canada, Alaska, etc.) than to get to Antarctica. And getting you within view of them is the focus of today’s post.

You can fly round-trip from London (Stansted Airport) to Tampere, Finland for only £40 ($80) on Ryanair. Daily trains head into Lapland from Tampere.

Your chances of seeing the Northern Lights are highest during the winter months, especially between November and February, when daylight occupies just 4 to 6 hours of the day in northern Scandinavia. And the farther you remove yourself from the fluorescence of civilization, the easier it will be to see them. There is a lot of debate about the ‘best’ place to see the Lights, but truly the best place to see the lights is where the skies are the clearest. Here are a couple of options:

1. Kautokeino, Norway — The driest and coldest place in Norway, Kautokeino an ideal place from which to gaze. It is also the cultural center of the indigenous Sami people (whose descendents include Joni Mitchell and Renée Zellweger, incidentally). The tiny town — whose population numbers a meager 3,000 — is hardly a tourist mecca, but you can arrange to spend the night in a lavvu, a traditional Sami dwelling similar to a Native-American tepee. Maybe that only sounds appealing in a sweltering Hanoi summer.

2. Kakslauttanen, Finland — The Hotel & Igloo Village Kakslauttanen offers a bit more in the way of creature comforts. Accommodation options include log cabins, glass igloos, and proper snow igloos. For the view alone, I think I’d have to go with a glass igloo. Besides taking in the Northern Lights on a clear night, you can check out the ice art gallery, go ice swimming, or give ice carving a shot. I’m sensing a theme, and it is numbness. I couldn’t find rates on the hotel website, but according to this company’s site, it looks like you can book two persons’ transportation from London and accommodation for three nights (one each in glass igloo, snow igloo, and cabin) for £2,354 (or $3,711). Hey, they’ve got to pay for those imported zebra comforters somehow…

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Vinacarta: like a map but smarta

The night before I boarded a bus to Hanoi last week, I scoured the internet for a quality map of the city. None of the usual suspects (Google, Mapquest, et al) offered detailed enough information. That’s when I stumbled across Vinacarta.

Vinacarta offers a fantastic set of info-maps for major cities in SE Asia, and it’s extremely easy and intuitive to use. Whether you’re looking for shops, restaurants, parks, etc., or simply trying to get oriented, Vinacarta is the best site I’ve yet come across to help you. It’s basically a mashup of Google Maps and Citysearch.

Just zoom in on a part of a particular city, then select what interests you from the menu at left. Instantly every relevant business in the database is highlighted on the map, with the accompanying address, a description, pictures (if available), and links to reviews of the place. Instant gratification.

Of course Vinacarta has its limitations. Its information isn’t comprehensive; only fifteen of the largest cities in SE Asia are covered, and among those, it’s nearly impossible to account for every tiny side street and mom-and-pop shop. So Vinacarta doesn’t. Also, it’s missing the one function that makes Mapquest and Google Maps so handy: ‘Driving Directions’.

But these are minor quibbles, and ones that might be addressed in time. Given how useful (and unique at the moment) Vinacarta is, it’s a bit ridiculous to complain.

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Bless you, Ctrip.com

I am clumsily feeling my way through this website thing. Sure, I thought, I’m pretty good at navigating the internet and can hunt and peck at a reasonable speed (astonishing speed after 32 ounces of coffee), so why not raise the bar a bit and manage a website? Ha ha.

A few weeks ago I was trying to update theflashpacker.com to the latest version. It’s a simple task, really. My 17-month old niece could probably do it between naps; give her twenty minutes to paint the screen with blueberry pulp and bash the keys with a stuffed monkey, and voilà! (more like wawa!), the website’s up and running. If only she’d been there for advice….

Known for a magic finger that manages to unintentionally and irretrievably discard enormous amounts of valuable information, I decided first to back up the site. Having done so successfully (I guess), I robotically followed the steps for the update. With unusual focus I deleted every last file I was supposed to delete and I uploaded what they told me to upload. And when I had followed the final instruction and was ready to check out the new, deliciously retooled theflashpacker.com, I keyed in the domain name: Fatal Error. Blah blah domain blah server blah blah.

Fatal error. Fatal! I’m no techno-maven, but in real life fatal’s pretty serious. And I panicked.

Here’s where I went wrong. Rather than calmly assessing the situation or getting up from the computer to exercise or simply whacking myself in the temple with a hammer, I furiously went back over every single step, time and time again, and never came across my mistake. So I started over from scratch. Same result. Again and again. My insanity was proved. After nearly six hours of backing up, transferring files, emailing tech support, zipping and unzipping, naming and renaming, I still could not get past the fatal error. Having killed our website, I began to grieve.

Then Whit came home and within a couple of minutes diagnosed the problem, fixed it, and voilà!, reduced me to tears.

All this to say that my computer dexterity far excels my Mandarin.

I arrived in Shanghai six days ago, and armed with a Lonely Planet guide/phrasebook, I set out to see and do as much as possible in a week-long stay. I spent the first full day in Shanghai plotting an itinerary, walking the Huangpu River (pictured above) and Renmin Square, and figuring out the combination of buses, trains, planes, and taxis that would get me where I wanted to go. The next morning I boarded a bus for Huangshan (the Yellow Mountain — more on that later) five-and-a-half-hours west of Shanghai, and thought things were going along splendidly.

Despite two days of miscommunications, superfluous cab rides, and anxiety over a highly questionable map, I had ascended and descended Huangshan and was relieved to be back on a bus from Tunxi to Shanghai more or less on schedule. The bus driver indicated that the destination was the South Shanghai Bus Station, the same one I’d left from. Perfect. I had worked it out so that I could arrive at the bus station in the early afternoon, take the metro back to the hotel to pick up my luggage, then cab it over to the airport in time for a flight to Guilin, my next stop.

Well, five-and-a-half hours turned into six, then seven. At the eight hour mark we stopped to refuel the bus at the world’s slowest gas pump. After fifteen minutes (and only fifteen litres dispensed) I was ready to siphon gas out of the pump with a straw. We finally pulled out of the petrol station in a light drizzle and proceeded through a neighborhood I didn’t recognize from the previous bus trip. The rain grew heavier. When we finally reached the station (definitely not the South Station!), eight hours and forty-five minutes after we left Tunxi, I disembarked in the now-monsoon and wandered to the ticket window to ask where in Shanghai we were. She didn’t speak any English and said something inscrutable in Mandarin. I flashed my map and pointed, blurting out a few words from the phrasebook. She giggled. Uh oh.

Other people came over to offer assistance. I tried again to ask where exactly we were. More giggles. Finally, with a chorus of people shouting directions at me and pointing this way and that, I just said ‘xie xie’ (thank you) and walked out to hail a cab in the downpour. Several minutes and dozens of cabs passed while I stood next to the road, with all the helpers from the bus station still staring after me. A fareless cab eventually stopped and I told the driver the address of the hotel in a variety of accents, speeds, and pitches before he caught on. Fishing (literally) my clock out of my left pocket, I realized the flight to Guilin was now officially out of the question. I was drenched, exasperated, and exhausted.

Back at the hotel, I asked for a room, fell into it, and shivered myself dry while suffering through the Scorpion King (for the second and final time in my life) on the English-language movie channel. I then hooked up my laptop and began to drudge through revising my plans. That’s when I came across Ctrip.com.

It’s just like expedia or travelocity, where you can find flights, hotels, and car rentals, but it’s specific to China. And unlike most things specific to China, Ctrip.com features a completely coherent English version. In half an hour I booked a next-day flight to Guilin (and cheap!) and hotels in each of the next three cities I’d visit.

If you’re ever in China and you just cannot bear the thought of trying to make another phone reservation where neither you nor the person with whom your speaking has the faintest idea what the other is on about, Ctrip is your salvation. Or if China’s in your future but conversational Chinese probably isn’t, go to Ctrip before you let the Mandarin get you down. Xie xie, Ctrip, xie xie…

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