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Archive for the ‘Transportation’


Cheap air travel in Southeast Asia

I’ve just returned to Hanoi after about four weeks of crisscrossing Southeast Asia by air, and I’d like to take a moment to extol the virtues of Air Asia. I boarded nine Air Asia flights in twenty-six days: eight of the nine arrived early or on time (one was an hour late due to weather); check-ins were quick and hassle-free; gate agents and flight attendants were uniformly courteous and friendly; and most importantly, the average fare for those nine flights was a mere US$68.

I have to admit I’m always a bit wary of low-cost carriers. The term conjures images in my mind of sputtering prop-planes, terrified passengers clinging to chicken coops with blanched knuckles, carry-on luggage being devoured by goats come untethered, and gobs of freshly chewed gum smooshed over the holes in the fuselage. But Air Asia’s fleet consists of relatively young and spotless Airbus A320s — the majority of the fleet, and of which the average age is 1.2 years — A330s, and Boeing 737s.

What are Air Asia’s drawbacks? Well, the concept is no-frills air travel, so if you want frills — weighty checked baggage, insurance to change or cancel your booking, refreshments on the plane, et al — you pay for them. But even with these additional charges thrown in it’s probably still cheaper to fly Air Asia than a major carrier. Also, there’s no assigned seating on Air Asia flights, so passengers tend to be annoyingly hypercompetitive about being first in line to board and leave the plane (you can avoid this hassle, however, by paying extra for “Xpress boarding” as well). There’s plenty of attempted line cutting and jostling for advantage, but if you’re in Asia, you’re probably accustomed to that.

There are of course other options for low-cost air travel in Southeast Asia, but Air Asia never gave me a reason to switch carriers, so I can’t comment on them from personal experience. You might try Jetstar in Vietnam, Tiger Airways in Singapore, or NokAir in Thailand, whose “We Fly Smile” motto is a wonderful example of the glorious Englibberish for which the Thai have an unmistakable genius. The list goes on.

Asia’s low-cost carriers are also economical way to reach Australia — if you book far in advance. A quick search on Tiger Airways turned up a Singapore-Perth flight in March 2009 for $146. On Air Asia X, a similar flight from Kuala Lumpur to Perth or Melbourne can be had for $222. Just something to keep in your back pocket.

Another option is to take advantage of Bangkok Airways’ Discovery Airpass, which prices most domestic routes in Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia at $60, and most international routes at $100 (long-haul flights at $150). In order to qualify for the Discovery Airpass, you have to book between three and six individual legs. However, the quoted fares exclude airport charges and other fees, so in the end you’ll probably still save money booking in bulk on a low-cost carrier.

Safe travels and thanks for reading!

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A different kind of travel pod?

Please pardon this rant, but I’ve just left the longest and most excruciating two-hour flight of my life. Was it rough air, you ask, that made it so miserable? Did the flight attendant unload the newly brewed contents of a coffee carafe in your lap? No, it was worse than either of these. Misery was two-and-a-half feet of mobile terror, cleverly disguised by a seraphic face and a copse of platinum hair. Misery sat right behind me, a sugar-fueled fiend in a yellow jumper.

I’ve come across, and sat within an ear poke of, every possible kind of kid in my travels. There have been plenty of complete angels, of course. But that’s not the kind I’m concerned with. I’m talking about kids with vocal cords of solid titanium. Burgeoning kung fu masters engaged in mortal combat with the back of my seat. Children gifted with the ability to project bodily fluids over great distances and with frightful precision. But this one had a knack for chaos clearly imparted from on high.

He was a bonanza of irritating noises: from the brash clacking together of plastic toys and seat belt parts with his havocking little hands, to the soul-wracking squeals that would outdo a stuck pig in a sack, to the favored electronic game whose sole redeeming qualities seemed to be its ability to mimic an ambulance siren and its eternal battery life.

Where were his parents? Across the aisle, leaving the monitoring and reigning in of this viking-in-the-making to his overwhelmed grandmother, whose meek castigations were rebuffed with the glee of a defiant dictator. And speaking of dictation, midway through the flight he filled our collective ear canals with a tantalizing taste of his in-progress work of literature, surely the first to be composed entirely of ‘goos’, ‘ghees’, and ‘ghaas’, and punctuated exclusively by exclamation marks!!! He ended the oratory with a wholly unexpected and murderous scream. As with all great art, my reaction to it was a visceral one.

OK, I understand that it’s developmentally important to let kids express themselves and exercise their creativity. But I also think it’s necessary, just as a precautionary measure for a select few tyrannical tykes, that airplanes, restaurants, and theaters be equipped with sound-absorbant pods, lockable from the outside, in which these kids can be placed when the “creative” urge strikes. This way, they can develop the expressive aspects of their personality and their sense of independence. Everybody wins. I’m only one-eighth serious, of course. The other seven-eights of me thinks the parents should be thrown in there with them.

I was still fantasizing about my idea as we began our descent, when a pointed jab caught me in the underarm. I turned to peer through the gap between seats, catching brief glimpses of a whirling, yellow column of air and, behind it, a resigned look on his grandmother’s face, as if to say, “Oh well, what can you do?” I responded with a look that said, “Get a pod.”

Thanks for reading. See you next week…

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Bless you, Ctrip.com

I am clumsily feeling my way through this website thing. Sure, I thought, I’m pretty good at navigating the internet and can hunt and peck at a reasonable speed (astonishing speed after 32 ounces of coffee), so why not raise the bar a bit and manage a website? Ha ha.

A few weeks ago I was trying to update theflashpacker.com to the latest version. It’s a simple task, really. My 17-month old niece could probably do it between naps; give her twenty minutes to paint the screen with blueberry pulp and bash the keys with a stuffed monkey, and voilà! (more like wawa!), the website’s up and running. If only she’d been there for advice….

Known for a magic finger that manages to unintentionally and irretrievably discard enormous amounts of valuable information, I decided first to back up the site. Having done so successfully (I guess), I robotically followed the steps for the update. With unusual focus I deleted every last file I was supposed to delete and I uploaded what they told me to upload. And when I had followed the final instruction and was ready to check out the new, deliciously retooled theflashpacker.com, I keyed in the domain name: Fatal Error. Blah blah domain blah server blah blah.

Fatal error. Fatal! I’m no techno-maven, but in real life fatal’s pretty serious. And I panicked.

Here’s where I went wrong. Rather than calmly assessing the situation or getting up from the computer to exercise or simply whacking myself in the temple with a hammer, I furiously went back over every single step, time and time again, and never came across my mistake. So I started over from scratch. Same result. Again and again. My insanity was proved. After nearly six hours of backing up, transferring files, emailing tech support, zipping and unzipping, naming and renaming, I still could not get past the fatal error. Having killed our website, I began to grieve.

Then Whit came home and within a couple of minutes diagnosed the problem, fixed it, and voilà!, reduced me to tears.

All this to say that my computer dexterity far excels my Mandarin.

I arrived in Shanghai six days ago, and armed with a Lonely Planet guide/phrasebook, I set out to see and do as much as possible in a week-long stay. I spent the first full day in Shanghai plotting an itinerary, walking the Huangpu River (pictured above) and Renmin Square, and figuring out the combination of buses, trains, planes, and taxis that would get me where I wanted to go. The next morning I boarded a bus for Huangshan (the Yellow Mountain — more on that later) five-and-a-half-hours west of Shanghai, and thought things were going along splendidly.

Despite two days of miscommunications, superfluous cab rides, and anxiety over a highly questionable map, I had ascended and descended Huangshan and was relieved to be back on a bus from Tunxi to Shanghai more or less on schedule. The bus driver indicated that the destination was the South Shanghai Bus Station, the same one I’d left from. Perfect. I had worked it out so that I could arrive at the bus station in the early afternoon, take the metro back to the hotel to pick up my luggage, then cab it over to the airport in time for a flight to Guilin, my next stop.

Well, five-and-a-half hours turned into six, then seven. At the eight hour mark we stopped to refuel the bus at the world’s slowest gas pump. After fifteen minutes (and only fifteen litres dispensed) I was ready to siphon gas out of the pump with a straw. We finally pulled out of the petrol station in a light drizzle and proceeded through a neighborhood I didn’t recognize from the previous bus trip. The rain grew heavier. When we finally reached the station (definitely not the South Station!), eight hours and forty-five minutes after we left Tunxi, I disembarked in the now-monsoon and wandered to the ticket window to ask where in Shanghai we were. She didn’t speak any English and said something inscrutable in Mandarin. I flashed my map and pointed, blurting out a few words from the phrasebook. She giggled. Uh oh.

Other people came over to offer assistance. I tried again to ask where exactly we were. More giggles. Finally, with a chorus of people shouting directions at me and pointing this way and that, I just said ‘xie xie’ (thank you) and walked out to hail a cab in the downpour. Several minutes and dozens of cabs passed while I stood next to the road, with all the helpers from the bus station still staring after me. A fareless cab eventually stopped and I told the driver the address of the hotel in a variety of accents, speeds, and pitches before he caught on. Fishing (literally) my clock out of my left pocket, I realized the flight to Guilin was now officially out of the question. I was drenched, exasperated, and exhausted.

Back at the hotel, I asked for a room, fell into it, and shivered myself dry while suffering through the Scorpion King (for the second and final time in my life) on the English-language movie channel. I then hooked up my laptop and began to drudge through revising my plans. That’s when I came across Ctrip.com.

It’s just like expedia or travelocity, where you can find flights, hotels, and car rentals, but it’s specific to China. And unlike most things specific to China, Ctrip.com features a completely coherent English version. In half an hour I booked a next-day flight to Guilin (and cheap!) and hotels in each of the next three cities I’d visit.

If you’re ever in China and you just cannot bear the thought of trying to make another phone reservation where neither you nor the person with whom your speaking has the faintest idea what the other is on about, Ctrip is your salvation. Or if China’s in your future but conversational Chinese probably isn’t, go to Ctrip before you let the Mandarin get you down. Xie xie, Ctrip, xie xie…

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Havana Ball: American travel to Cuba

Since 1982 the U.S. has maintained a trade embargo against Cuba. For those of you keeping score, the embargo anticipated the movie Red Dawn by two full years, and it has outlasted the Soviet/Cuban alliance by nearly two decades. While it doesn’t explicitly forbid Americans from traveling there (because the Supreme Court says that’s a violation of Americans’ Constitutional rights), it does prohibit economic transactions with Cuban businesses, either within Cuba or from American soil. So it’s kind of a de facto travel restriction as well.

But that hasn’t stopped tens of thousands of American tourists from making like the rest of the world and paying a visit to our tiny island neighbor. (Nor has it stopped scores of fashionable Americans from buying and wearing Ché Guevara memorabilia without knowing why…). And no, you don’t have to brave the Pirates of the Caribbean on an improvised raft of questionable seaworthiness to get there. Most Americans reach Cuba by direct flight from Cancún, Nassau, Vancouver, Toronto, or even a handful of European cities.

There are a few travel agencies that specialize in bringing American citizens to Cuba. One of the most highly respected and recommended is Cuba Travel US (… Marazul is another), an agency run by an American family with more than thirty years of experience in arranging Cuban excursions. Operating under the belief that freedom of travel is a fundamental American right, they’ll book your flight, accommodations, and car rental, and offer advice on making the most of your illicit visit. Their website contains a number of helpful travel tips, including the following:

- Use your passport only for entering and departing from Cuba. Ask the Cubans not to stamp your passport. As a matter of fact, Cuba has made it against their laws for a Cuban customs or Immigration officer to stamp an American’s passport.

- We recommend that you use your birth certificate and drivers license or picture ID to enter Mexico, Nassau, Canada or for re-entering the United States. That may change but probably not before 2009, if ever.

- Be sure to take some humanitarian foods or medicines and give them to the Cuban people you meet or to the Cuban Red Cross representative (usually the nurse at the hotel where you stay). US law (Helms Burton Act) says in Section 1705 (b) and (c) that if you donate humanitarian food or medicines that there are “no restrictions” on travel. Document the giving of those gifts with a photograph if possible.

If it sounds a bit sketchy, that’s because it has to be. Recreational travel to Cuba does not please the American government; just ask travelocity. And though it’s rare, “the man” has been known to levy fines against individual citizens making unauthorized trips to Cuba. Nonetheless, Cuba Travel US alone claims to have assisted more than 23,000 Americans in getting there, with a few travelers fined and nary a one jailed or prosecuted.

With Fidel Castro having ceded power to his brother Raul earlier this year, the icy Cuban-American relations may be in for a thaw. If and when that happens, I’m sure Americans will start making long overdue trips to the south by the cruise-full. Until then, follow your heart and travel smart!

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Air travel on the cheap: become a casual air courier…

Are you young (but over 21) and unencumbered? Or are you older and quite encumbered but can work from anywhere? If so, there is a world of inexpensive travel opportunities waiting for you to explore…

For an annual fee of $45, you can register with the IAATC (International Association of Air Travel Couriers), which gives you access to a members-only website of air courier opportunities. Basically what happens is this: when companies need documents or freight transported overseas, the quickest and cheapest option is often just to purchase a plane ticket and have someone fly a commercial jet to the destination for delivery, rather than shipping them. That’s where you come in.

In exchange for providing courier service, you are offered heavily discounted (up to 85 percent!) round-trip airfare to and from the destination, with stays of one week, 10 days, two weeks, or even longer, depending on the destination. According to the website, “recent bargain fares for couriers have included trips to the Orient for $200 roundtrip, Europe for $99 to $199, South America for $150.” Flashpackers living in or around (or with quick access to) New York or London have the widest range of travel possibilities open to them.

Despite the handsome satchel, this one's not eligible to be an air courier...Caveat: the goods or documents in your charge will be checked, so typically you’ll have to carry your own stuff on the plane with you. Pack light and pack wisely. Also, since jobs tend to be assigned at the last minute, it can be difficult to travel with friends unless they can arrange for a similar courier mission or buy a plane ticket themselves.

The catches for any would-be air courier: you must 1) maintain a clean passport record, and 2) not resemble a wookie. Easy enough? I thought so. Safe and happy travels!

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International Car Rental Deals at Auto Europe

As a corollary to the previous post on driving around South Africa, I wanted to mention an excellent international car rental site: Auto Europe. The name’s a bit misleading — you can book rentals there in more than 70 countries worldwide (Europe included, of course).

You should definitely compare rates from multiple sites before you book a vehicle, because some sites will have better selection and rates for certain car classes than the competition. For instance, we booked an SUV for the duration of our trip to South Africa; the other day I found an SUV offered at expedia for about US$72 per day. However, a recent Auto Europe search found no available SUVs from the same pick-up location.

Auto Europe’s rates on smaller cars, on the other hand, were far superior to those from other sites we checked. Searching expedia and Hertz for 4-door, economy cars, the best rates I found were about US$30 and $32 per day (without insurance coverage), respectively. The equivalent rate at Auto Europe was $22 per day (and $32 fully insured): a more-than-25% savings.

Like I said, it’s best evaluate a few sites to find exactly what you need before you book, but a few additional minutes spent on research can save you a bundle over the course of a long trip.

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On the road in South Africa

Whit and I took a wonderful 17-day trip to South Africa with our friend Indira in September 2005. Future posts will tackle some of our experiences there, but for now let’s discuss how we got around…

During the trip-planning stage we decided that traversing the country by car would best suit our needs. We were trying to accomplish quite a lot in a relatively short time, and having our own vehicle would allow us the flexibility to improvise adjustments to our itinerary if needed.

In spite of its fuel inefficiency and higher daily rental rate, an SUV appealed to us for two reasons: one, we were going to be spending a lot of time in transit and we needed ample room for ourselves, our luggage, and our camping equipment, and two, we were planning to go on safari at Kruger National Park, and the sitting height of the SUV would give us a better vantage for spotting wildlife.

map of South AfricaLooking back on the trip, we made the right decision. South Africa is a marvelous country in which to drive, with well-maintained, open roads and stunning landscapes (not to mention glistening, antiseptic petrol-station restrooms — you cannot underestimate their value to the road-bound traveler!). In spite of my whiplash-inducing attempts to drive a manual from the opposite side, we successfully completed our circuit of eastern South Africa (with stops in Swaziland and Lesotho, and very nearly an unintended one in Mozambique due to questionable navigation) with our beings and our beloved Toyota Condor intact. I cannot say the same for many of the country’s birds. I don’t know if it’s hemispheric confusion or what, but they always seemed to take flight directly into my driving lane rather than away from it, as they wisely do at home.

As long as fuel does not become prohibitively expensive, I cannot recommend car hire strongly enough if you’re on a tight budget time-wise. Divided between the three of us, the total cost was manageable, if not cheap. A quick expedia car rental search (without discount codes) turns up an SUV from Hertz at about US$72 per day (pretty much what we paid when we went), taxes included. If you can get by in a smaller car, the price will be a fraction of that. Fuel currently runs about US$1 per liter (just under $4 per gallon), roughly equivalent to U.S. prices — definitely not a pittance, but worth it for the convenience.

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Frugal flashpackers, get to know ‘Your Amazing Personal Travel Assistant.’

As any frequent air traveler knows, the price of a given plane ticket can vary dramatically depending on a number of factors: how far in advance you book, which day of the week and time of day a flight departs, whether it’s high- or low-travel season at the destination, and so on. Throw in the airlines’ ever-changing special offers and rewards programs, and finding the lowest possible fare becomes a quite an involved endeavor. That’s where Your Amazing Personal Travel Assistant (yapta, for short) comes in.

yapta logoThere are a couple of ways to use yapta.com effectively. The easier way is to download the site’s software; once it’s installed the program constantly scours airline websites for fare reductions. If you’ve already bought a plane ticket, you tag the flight with a click of your mouse, and yapta will notify you if the fare drops below the price you paid. (It will also keep an eye out for fare reductions on flights you’re interested in but haven’t yet booked.) Or if you’d prefer not to install the software, you can manually enter the flight numbers for each trip leg, but this is obviously a bit more time consuming.

Once the fare drops, yapta tells you whom to contact at the airline and how to secure your refund or voucher before the price changes again.

The site is less than two years old, but it has already earned inclusion on Time Magazine’s list of the Top 50 Websites of 2007, and it was one of Travel + Leisure’s Top 25 travel sites last year. Saving people money seems to catch their attention.

Being such a young site, yapta does have some weaknesses yet to sort out. First, the time-saving tagging feature worked best for me on Internet Explorer; I had to manually enter the flight numbers to get it to work on Mozilla Firefox. I’m not sure about yapta’s compatibility with other browsers. Also, right now it only tracks fares from U.S.-based carriers, although it does track international flights on said carriers. But it won’t work with British Airways, Lufthansa, LAN, KLM, etc. Also, it can’t track fares on multi-carrier tickets, so if you purchase a round-trip ticket that departs with one airline and returns with another, yapta won’t offer much help.

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Sleeping in airports

Sleeping in airports isn’t just for the budget-conscious these days. For some tight itineraries it’s practically a necessity. I first came across the website www.sleepinginairports.net when I was a student backpacker and a friend of mine thought the site was hilarious and totally me (I once spent a week sleeping in Charles de Gaulle trying to catch a flight standby-style. Notice that Charles de Gaulle is #1 on the site’s ‘airports you hate’ list).

Nowadays, even if price isn’t the driving factor, I often find myself having to choose between trekking all the way into the city and back to the airport while hauling luggage, bleary-eyed, just to get a few hours of sleep, or catching my shuteye in the airport. Usually the airport wins on the basis of convenience.

Sleeping in airports is a fantastic site because travelers review plenty of international airports, offering tips about where the most comfy, quiet seating for sleeping is, whether or not there are showers, etc. Individual travelers post reviews and the site posts best and worst lists, general tips, and featured listings. Also, some airports are actually fun! There’s the increasingly common gym, spa, and gambling facilities, and occasionally something more offbeat. You can check out a small art museum in Amsterdam or use free game consoles in Singapore. Sleeping in airports will give you the lowdown on it all. Plus, there’s a new feature coming soon: the how-well-do-you-know-your-airports quiz? I’m going to rule that one…

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Seatguru

Seatguru is a little like having your own special travel elf that checks out the plane ahead of time and lets you know which aisles have extra leg room and which seats have that annoying box that blocks any under-the-seat-in-front-of-you storage.

This site covers all the major (and some non-major) airlines and lets you look up any plane. It gives incredibly detailed information on armrests, aisle width, seat width, leg room and anything else where an extra centimeter makes a huge difference over the course of eight hours.

So, I checked out my dad’s plane - Delta’s Boeing 767-400. Seatguru tells me to stay away from rows 27, 44, 45, and 46 since they don’t recline as much. It also tells you need-to-know information like whether or not all the seats have video units (every seat on the 767-400 does) — again, small details that can make a big difference in on a long-haul flight.

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